Posts by BIKE-HEDONIA
Deranging the Cows of Poso
The last stretch up the coast is beautiful sunshine, blue skies. I stop for lunch at a roadside warung with a line of trucks pulled up ...
No Rest for the Wicked
After the great mud bog I hit the coast again, some small towns, and for a moment I thought that things would get a little more pedestr...
Sulawesi mud
I rolled into Kendari on a high, just on dark. The city turned out to be larger than I'd hoped, which made finding budget accommodation...
Running out of island
Morning in Kolaka brought brilliant sunshine and a queue for fuel that stretched down the road. Evidently a fuel tanker had just arrive...
Sulawesi’s Self Service Coastline
Once I figured I was clear of bandit country, I allowed myself a morning tea stop. There was a warung on the cliff, but no people anywh...
Don’t Stop In Bandit Country
I could have happily idled away many more days at Ibu Salma's house, watching the children run wild and eating oranges under the mango ...
Wedding Day
I'd been chilling with Ibu Salma for a few days when I got invited to a wedding. Fortunately, not my own. So I was all for it.
The wedd...
Home Sweet Illegal Home
I'm under instructions from Ibu Salma to call her before I leave - she will come and show me the way to her house, and we will have cof...
The Hungry Lake
Dawn shows me my campsite for the first time. Under trees, on the edge of a lake, across the road from houses that look like they belon...
Gatecrashing, stealth camping
I fuel up, and it's hot. I've got a headache by the time I leave town, and now that I'm on the coast road, there's traffic. Cars and tr...
Sunshine in Palopo
My second attempt to leave Tana Toraja features wild amounts of sunshine. The birds are singing, the chickens gleeful; the only reminde...
Of Fuel Leaks & Flooding Rains
Too much excitement. After my little escapade to Ollon, I immediately come down with a cold. Even the weather is in on the act: the clo...
The broken road to perfection
Another cool morning in Tana Toraja. The house is silent - Tony is away for a few days on business - and all I can hear are the chicken...
Kete Kesu: A long passing on
The Toraja people are known for their elaborate funerary rites. It can take years to prepare and complete all the proper ceremonies to ...
Arrival in Tana Toraja
High in the volcanic mountains of Sulawesi, just scraping the underside of the clouds, is a land for both the living and the dead. In t...