Blog
19
Mar
That first night in Dili, I bought myself a beer and watched the light fade over the traffic along the Avenida de Portugal. On the othe...
16
Mar
Landing in Dili
The day I flew to Dili I was almost sick with excitement. Only one day into my life as a grown up person of thirty, and here I was flyi...
12
Feb
Reality Check
I'd made it to Darwin; Asia was just beyond the horizon. I could practically smell it. Seeing it was more difficult. Five times a day I...
28
Jan
Smoke gets in your eyes
I'd soaked in the hot springs and from there it was an easy run into Darwin - just four hundred kilometres up the highway.
I wasn't in ...
22
Jan
Bitter Springs
I woke late in a lather of sweat and humidity. The sun was on my tent and it was steaming me slowly like a greenhouse tomato.
21
Jan
Last Road to the End of Australia
I emerged onto the great north-south sweep of the Stuart Highway at Daly Waters. It's a smooth strip of bitumen that neatly bisects Aus...
19
Jan
Heartbreak Hotel
I woke in the pink of dawn and packed up my roadside camp, eyes still blurred by sleep and grit. There was no shade and I was racing th...
31
Dec
Roadside Assist
I pulled out of Barkly Homestead and turned off the main highway. Instead of following the main road west until I hit the gigantic nort...
28
Dec
Into the Northern Territory
In Camooweal that morning, I treated myself to a milky coffee at the road house where I fueled up. It had been a nice camp spot down by...
24
Dec
A Fine Balance
I'd investigated different routes from Boulia to Mount Isa, and the minor road through Urandangi looked like it might be fun. Local enq...
16
Dec
Vulnerable
I pulled off the road near a water tank, somewhere between Boulia and Mount Isa. The sun was dropping rapidly; time to find some firewo...
15
Dec
Beastie Disassembled
By the next day I knew I'd be waiting a little while for my new tyres to make the migration from east coast Australia to the outback, b...
13
Dec
Hot winds and a technological death
I was just leaving Birdsville when I noticed a new, rough note in the sound of Beastie's single-cylinder thump. It wasn't quite a rattl...
23
Nov
Birdsville
It was pitch black and cold at 6am the next morning - cold enough to forego a morning shower and just add more layers of clothing on to...
21
Nov
Road Kill
I woke an hour before dawn, momentarily confused: the full moon had moved overhead and was shining through my tent and into my eyes, li...