Blog
06
Mar
No Rest for the Wicked
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By
BIKE-HEDONIA
After the great mud bog I hit the coast again, some small towns, and for a moment I thought that things would get a little more pedestr...
08
Feb
Sulawesi mud
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By
I rolled into Kendari on a high, just on dark. The city turned out to be larger than I'd hoped, which made finding budget accommodation...
02
Feb
Running out of island
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By
Morning in Kolaka brought brilliant sunshine and a queue for fuel that stretched down the road. Evidently a fuel tanker had just arrive...
31
Jan
Sulawesi’s Self Service Coastline
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By
Once I figured I was clear of bandit country, I allowed myself a morning tea stop. There was a warung on the cliff, but no people anywh...
28
Jan
Don’t Stop In Bandit Country
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By
I could have happily idled away many more days at Ibu Salma's house, watching the children run wild and eating oranges under the mango ...
26
Jan
Wedding Day
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By
I'd been chilling with Ibu Salma for a few days when I got invited to a wedding. Fortunately, not my own. So I was all for it.
The wedd...
24
Jan
Home Sweet Illegal Home
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By
I'm under instructions from Ibu Salma to call her before I leave - she will come and show me the way to her house, and we will have cof...
21
Jan
The Hungry Lake
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By
Dawn shows me my campsite for the first time. Under trees, on the edge of a lake, across the road from houses that look like they belon...
19
Jan
Gatecrashing, stealth camping
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By
I fuel up, and it's hot. I've got a headache by the time I leave town, and now that I'm on the coast road, there's traffic. Cars and tr...
17
Jan
Sunshine in Palopo
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By
My second attempt to leave Tana Toraja features wild amounts of sunshine. The birds are singing, the chickens gleeful; the only reminde...
13
Jan
Of Fuel Leaks & Flooding Rains
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By
Too much excitement. After my little escapade to Ollon, I immediately come down with a cold. Even the weather is in on the act: the clo...
11
Jan
The broken road to perfection
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By
Another cool morning in Tana Toraja. The house is silent - Tony is away for a few days on business - and all I can hear are the chicken...
27
Dec
Kete Kesu: A long passing on
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By
The Toraja people are known for their elaborate funerary rites. It can take years to prepare and complete all the proper ceremonies to ...
20
Dec
Arrival in Tana Toraja
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By
High in the volcanic mountains of Sulawesi, just scraping the underside of the clouds, is a land for both the living and the dead. In t...
16
Dec
That time I offended a whole village
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By
Okay so here's how it goes.
I'm riding through southern Sulawesi, heading for the mountains in the middle of the island - windy roads. ...