Blog
13
Jun
Grandma Says Don’t Cry
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By
BIKE-HEDONIA
For three days, the child hid in the jungle.
On the second day, my friends consulted the local witchdoctor. The 'horoscope' is how they...
31
May
The Waiting Game
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By
Just sitting, just waiting. Without talking, without being able to track the time that's gone by; without knowing how long you'll be wa...
29
May
From Bad to Worse
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By
After my little machete stand-off the previous evening, the morning dawned clear and sunny and I was expecting a better day. Machete du...
28
May
Machetes at Midnight
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By
It all started off innocently enough.
I arrived at Morobo hot springs in the afternoon, and I was fading like the day. The road from Su...
22
May
Beastie takes a mudbath somewhere near Indonesia
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By
I spent a day in hot, hot Suai. Every passing truck dragged a cloud of dust from the powdery roadsides. I slept late on my bunkbed, swe...
18
May
Darkness my old friend
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By
After five days at the convent I was ready to face the world again - specifically, the supposedly awful road along the South Coast to S...
05
May
Tears Before Tea Time
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By
After the old man had mugged me with his frailty for the stale doughnuts I didn't want, I was in a funny mood. Viqueque proved to be a ...
02
May
In which I am mugged by an old man
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By
The road winds down the Southern side of the mountains; if I were a local, I'd be coasting silently with the engine off, saving fuel. B...
25
Apr
Jungle and Ghosts
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By
Lospalos is a sprawling town. I've heard that it's a major cultural centre; that Lospalos people are renowned as artists and musicians....
22
Apr
Moonrise in Com
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By
Time to get back on the road and explore the wilds of Timor. I'd been told that I 'couldn't' ride ride around the island because the ro...
19
Apr
Rest
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By
After Jaco Island, I loop back through Baucau and sleep late for a couple of days.
When I emerge from under my mosquito net and venture...
18
Apr
Will I make it? The road out of Jaco
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By
I'd been sweating about the road back up the mountain ever since I came down it. There was a particular steep bend with powdery dust at...
17
Apr
Never smile at a crocodile
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By
Timor is full of crocodiles. Hot weather, beautiful beaches and dramatic rivers with broad gravelly beds, all with bonus crocodiles.
I ...
15
Apr
Sinking into Baucau
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By
Baucau's Old Town clings among jagged basalt outcrops, red-roofed Portuguese buildings gazing over a hazy blue sea. Further uphill, hid...
07
Apr
Dust & Joy
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By
The map showed only one main road running East along the coast, and I'd just found it completely closed by road works. Not a good start...