Blog
CBR Enduro
You can take the girl from the adventure bike but you can't take the adventure out of the girl.
You may recall that my KTM 690 Endur...
You get up, and you get knocked down.
Winter is coming. Honestly it is. I had goosebumps as I rode up the mountain today, it must have been about 23 C. Yes, goosebumps; cold...
Never Pity A Dying Man
It's New Year's Eve 2020, and I am alone. Completely alone, in a darkened in a valley in northern Thailand. Cool air is rolling down th...
This is the new adventure.
It is 1am in northern Thailand and I have achieved the impossible: I have outlived a Bic ballpoint pen. Not by the mundane manner of ru...
Riding the Volcano
I get up to Manado and meet up with the most wonderful people - friends of my friends in Makassar. Gland has a motorbike workshop and W...
Let them eat cake
Ramadan. Every morning I'd be woken by the scrape of utensils on aluminium pans in the pitch dark, 3am, as the women cooked. Sahur, the...
Not lost, but still found
It's nighttime when I ride into a small town on the coast, spotlights blazing. I don't like riding at night because I can't see to save...
Stubborn
As a child, I never went to school.
I grew up in the midst of a small mountain range where the winter frost used to paint the landscape...
The Pressure Mounts
When I wake the next morning, my ears and sinuses are a hot zone of infection and - you guessed it - they hurt. I'd been hot and cold a...
Tell me what you need
I'm having my morning coffee when I notice the landlady trying to surreptitiously photograph me from the shadows. Sprung! I laugh and t...
Killing Me With Kindness
Come back to the west coast of Sulawesi with me. I want to tell you about the gravest danger you will face as a traveler on this island...
Solo Female, Muslim Nation
Indonesia is home to the largest population of Muslims of anywhere in the world. I'm a lone, single female atheist on a motorbike. So h...
Paradise Lost
Even in paradise, the world eventually reaches you.
I knew that the coronavirus would be in Indonesia long before its presence was reco...
Days of Summer
In Palu, I am spoiled rotten.
My local biker friends install me in their clubhouse - there's a little room with an old mattress on the ...
Deranging the Cows of Poso
The last stretch up the coast is beautiful sunshine, blue skies. I stop for lunch at a roadside warung with a line of trucks pulled up ...