Blog
04
Sep
Following my gut
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By
BIKE-HEDONIA
I stayed on the beach for a few more days after the night of the fishermen. They didn't come back to disturb me, and my sunbaked utopia...
31
Aug
The Risks I Choose
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By
When I'd spent enough time in the bosom of humanity, I decamped to Lemo-Lemo Beach. Rocky track. Palm trees, bamboo shacks, white sand....
28
Aug
The Matriarchy
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By
My time at Bira Beach was peaceful; I ate fruit and drank coffee with the family at my homestay, and the father, Riswan insisted that I...
28
Aug
Apparalang
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By
At Bira Beach I snorkeled amongst the boats, over the seaweed and clean white sand. Small fish flitted. The ankles of the other swimmer...
16
Aug
Where will you sleep?
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By
Fresh and fattened from my days in Makassar, I rolled out in brilliant sunshine and high humidity. The objective was the white sand bea...
04
Aug
At home in Makassar
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By
In Makassar, I followed Google's cyborg-voiced directions into the scrum of morning traffic.
Indonesians tell me that Makassar drivers ...
03
Aug
Docked
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By
The enforced stillness of the long ferry ride to Sulawesi was a calming buffer between islands. I lay on my vinyl shelf as night seeped...
20
May
Just cruising: the roro ferry life
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By
The Indonesian archipelago is connected by a network of giant RORO ferries. They take cars, motorbikes, and passengers, but those are t...
05
May
All aboard: Sulawesi
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By
The stretch of sea between Java and Sulawesi is quite big, and in the rainy season, wild enough. The scheduled departure day for my fer...
24
Apr
Random Acts of Friendship
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By
Sulawesi. That big island with four limbs, spreadeagled the way you sleep alone in a king sized bed on a summer night. One arm tossed a...
08
Apr
Sleep with the lights on
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By
Landing in Kuala Lumpur, I am immediately assailed by vistas of glass and plastic and concrete. The airport is all bright lighting, smo...
06
Apr
How not to fly
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By
When I rolled into Surabaya to jump a plane for my visa run, it was already dark. My flight was scheduled for the morning and all I had...
08
Mar
Get thee to an airport
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By
So all good things come to an end, including my Indonesian visa. After exhausting the monthly extensions available, I had to get myself...
17
Feb
Unspeakable Bliss
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By
After the night in my private dungeon, I was less than refreshed but perfectly safe. Could be worse.
I dug out my cooking pots and used...
08
Feb
My dungeon on Route 3
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By
So I was in East Java, overnighting in Jember, town of clean cheap hotels and nasi rawon. The next night I wasn't so lucky.
I'd been on...