A parallel world

In Riung, Itchan gave me an amazing gift. He'd been urging me to go out on one of his boats and snorkel amongst the islands, but I alwa...
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Shut Up and Ride

Back on the road, I'm heading for Riung. It's a little town on the north coast of Flores, picturesque, overlooking the corals and peaks...
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Beastie Goes to School

And instead of heading West - the direction I am supposed to be going - I turn East and follow more glorious asphalt twisties through the mountains to Maumere. Yes, I've been to Maumere before, but I haven't done this road before. And that's why I'm here, after all - to wring every bit of joy out of every corner. I'm here for the hedonia; not just to say that I rode to Paris.
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Damage Report

Riding out of Moni, upset, distracted, just getting the hell out of town. A set of beautiful asphalt s-bends. Badly cambered. Thin laye...
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Smacked down

I repacked Beastie and kept riding West. My goal was the famous Kelimutu, a volcanic peak crowned with three coloured lakes. Famous for...
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A place by the sea

Bamboo bungalows by the sea. Just a bed, a mosquito net; a roofless bathroom at the back where cold water cascades from a pipe over a f...
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The skin of my teeth

When I woke Larantuka was already hot and sweaty in the morning sun. I walked through the streets until I found a cash machine that wou...
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A lake in the jungle

From Larantuka there's a main road that runs across Flores from East to West; by all accounts a beautiful road, in good condition, and ...
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All at sea

I woke up early the next morning in Kupang. I had things to do, and I wanted to be at the ferry port early. My host at the hostel had a...
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Run for Kupang

The next morning I wandered into the 'restaurant' to claim my free breakfast and discovered the probable reason for the improbable 'res...
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Ants Included

I'd become accustomed to the pace of road travel in Timor Leste - say, a hundred kilometres every three hours - so Indonesia's decent r...
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Goodbye Timor Leste

It's an easy run from Dili to the Indonesian border, and I was there by lunch time. The road was fine, the traffic was normal; what a t...
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